JJ — you’re lucky to find such stiff shafts in long po cedar. Every woody shooter should have a “test kit” of a couple of glue-on field points in 125, 145, 160 and so on as high as you might ever want to go. I currently shoot 190 and 200 points on wood shafts but they’re not cedar. Cheap and easy to test this way. Better bare-shaft, but work with what you have on hand. I’d start by trying 145 heads on your current shafts and see if that knocks them out of spine. Until you try you can’t know for certain that you even need stiffer shafts to get more weight up front. It’s all fun. Dave

Every 35 grains of difference in tip weight (or 1″ of difference in shaft length) equals 5# of dynamic spine. Long and short of it: for every 10# in spine, you should be able to add 70 grains.

As always, tuning will let you know for sure.

I’m confused.I’ve always read that more point weight makes spine weaker.Is that what you’re after?

Once more I’m trying wooden shafts, unsure what weight to put up front so, I’ve decided to take some .357 cases add shot starting at 100 grains adding a little each time until I get good arrow flight, they’re a good fit on the shaft so I’m hoping not to glue them on during the experiment.

My biggest problem is I don’t know what spine these are and I don’t want to invest in a spine tester, to mean.

Mark.

jjnapp wrote: I found some 80-85 spined port orford shafts, I feel like it is tough finding heavy shafts. If I were to make these in the exact same fashion as my previous arrows how much weight do you think I could put up front? If it’s only a couple extra grains it probably wouldn’t be worth it.

Based on what’s working for you now, and on the charts, you should be able to go to 160 grains.