No pictures just now but I’ve recently switched to 4 x 3″ fletch and love the way they shoot and their quietness. Bright yellow, which blends fine in the mountain woods in fall with aspens and other yellow leaves everywhere. They also weight just a tad less than standard 3 x 5″ which doesn’t hurt FOC.

2″x1/2″

Fly just as good as 3″x3/4″

675grain arrow and 29% Efoc. Don’t know what to do to hit the 30% mark. Took me a month to get this formula right! But shot it with my broad heads and they fly great….when I do my part and pull through the release and follow through.

Couldn’t have done it without your help Tradbow friends of FOC forem and of course thanks to Dr. Ashby as well. 14 days will be the true test of these “Pork choppas”

Thanks! I have a 3″ parabolic chopper, I just take a pair of scissors and cut the back 1″ off. Work pretty good and I can get 3-4 cuts from a full length feather.

Let up the pressure on your third finger. When you tuned vertical you most likely weren’t pulling as strong with the third finger. When you cant the bow you must role the wrist or let up pressure on the third finger.

Troy

I have had trouble bare shaft tuning also and have made a fine set of 4 rock chucker arrows!

If your not drawing more than the 27″ your bow is rated at you may be over spined.

Having a similar set up 51.5@26, I ended up fletching 3 arrows(Easton traditional only 400) and starting at full length (32″) with 100 grn brass insert and 300 grn field point.

( This method is mentioned in TJ Conrad’s traditional bow hunters hand book, but he used bare shafts and fletched arrows, i just used the fletched shafts)

I shot three rounds of three arrows as consistent as possible on anchor and release, shooting as normal with a slight cant of the bow. If all three rounds went right of point of aim and showed a nock left I cut the shaft 1/4″ until the arrows where close to hitting point of aim and showing a slight nock left then I started cutting only 1/8″ or less until all three arrows where grouping in or immediately around my point of aim. They may look just a hair off by nock left or nock right in the target but all I or my helper( read deicated understanding wife ) can see while in flight is the fletching spin evenly all the way to the target. I ended up with a 731 grn arrow with 400 grns up front and a length of 30 3/8″ from valley of nock to back of insert.

I did have to adjust for nock high or low about every third cut so I would get a good consistent grouping three rounds in a row.

Good Luck

Troy

I also followed Troy Breeding’s advice and it makes a difference in the release.

Leo,

Yep, if your seeing a callous or heavy drag mark on your glove or tab then your using too much third finger.

Before spending the $$$ for lighter spined shafts try going up in point weight. If it takes quite a bit of weight to bring the shafts to clean flight then I’d say your current shafts are over spined. If it only takes a few grains to correct the flight then you may be able to lower the nock point on the string and correct it.

Sometimes only 1/16″ drop in nock point can do the job.

Troy

Crystalshrimp,

I am using steel force 300 grn screw in single bevel broad heads, they fly as well as the field points. I ordered mine from three rivers.

I have been shooting field points and small game thumpers as well as the broad heads with the same arrow with out having to make adjustments to my nock point or brace height, I just need to concentrate on my form and release. Concentrating to let off preasure on my third finger seems to help with my form and release, thanks Mr Breeding!

Oh… and remember to pick a spot.

Troy