wbr,

Welcome to TBM. There is a huge wealth of information on this site that you’ll be able to use. I don’t have any real experience with carbon arrows, so I’ll leave that aspect to somebody else. However, going off the information you gave, as far as aluminum arrows go, your best bet would be to start with a 2016 or 2018 shaft. Start long and cut your shaft down about 1/4″ at a time until you get close to a good dart-like flight with a bare shaft (no feathers), then start cutting smaller increments. You can also try paper tuning, but I don’t know much about that, so I won’t touch that, either. If you start with a full-length arrow, you’ll start out with a weak spine. The objective is to shorten the shaft, thus making it stiffer the shorter it gets, until you get a good straight-shooting shaft. I wouldn’t suggest shooting much past 10 yards while you’re tuning your arrows, but that’s my personal preference. Others may have other opinions or suggestions. Best of luck, and let us know how you come out with this.

Michael.

Michael,

I am thinking about giving the easton legacy arrow a try and need some guidance as I shoot wood and carbon. I have read that the users of these arrows are very pleased with the results. I did shoot aluminum about 10 years ago from my compound bow and they did perform well. I have only shot maybe 10-15 aluminum arrows from a longbow in a shop that had them as a demo arrow for the longbow and recurve customers testing their bows. They shot well also. I currently shoot GT 5575 29.5″ with 5″ shield cut feathers and 175 grain points with standard inserts. My bow is a reflex deflex with fast flight string and is 56#@28 inches and I pull all 28 and am actually getting just a tad more. I am working on a drill where I draw hold 2-3 seconds let down and repeat about twice more before I loose the arrow. I find that I am a touch over 28″ since I started this drill. I shoot POC from the same bow at 60-65# spine @ 29 inch arrow with a 145 grain point both of these arrows fly great. What will be my best starting point and what can I expect in a finished arrow at 29.5″ with 5″ inch shield cut feathers with 125 grain point? I am sorry that last question was what kind of finish weight can I expect? How do you feel about the legacy line also? Thanks

Could you pack any more into 1 paragraph?

I used the easton legacy arrows, so I can give you some feedback there. But everything depends on what you want. Do you want a cheaper arrow? Do you want the best and most accurate hunting arrow you can get?

Legacy arrows are cheaper than carbon arrows. And they tend to fly pretty well. But they won’t fly as well as carbon or penetrate as well. Or last as long.

If you want a cheaper alternative, then aluminum arrows are great. If you want the best arrow, better stick with carbon. And if you want to be as traditional as possible, well the only answer is wood.

WBR.. welcome to the site. I only shoot wood so I really can’t comment here. But, like Michael said.. Steve Graf and others have lots of knowledge on this subject.

A 2016 will spine right at 59 lb and would probably be your best bet. Start a little long and trim it down until you get perfect flight. A heavier point might help, too. You might get away with a 1916 depending on how the shelf is cut, but it would probably be marginal.

As for wood arrows, I have a bunch of spine test arrows that you can try.

Rick