I’m about to use words I learned from my custom bowyer, so the vocabulary may be off, but the outcome seems pretty solid (IMHO).

First, ever bow is different. Cast, draw force curve and center cut of riser affect that… shooter’s draw, release, etc will also give you varied results.

Some guys use the “calculator tables” to figure…never worked for me.

Simple way to tell might be to find a few older practice shafts that need or could benefit from refletching anyway, and cut off fletch and test bare.

That must be some bow to draw 31.5″ with 58″ overall length! Sweet!

Doug — I’d check with Gregg Coffey for recommendations; I’m sure he gets asked all the time and can get you in the ballpark.

Meanwhile, you said last night you were shooting pretty good with your current arrows, off a tad but grouping. If these are carbons I would play around with point weight to see if you can make them work. Doesn’t sound like you’re far off target, so to speak. If you’re real lucky you might find you’re a bit light up front and with a heavier head you won’t need new arrows. (Although the new bow is lighter, speed differences can be an equalizer.) That’s the joy of carbons … so very easy to experiment with. Of course you can do the same with woods; that’s why they invented heat glue. Again, congrats on a great choice in bow and woods. You should post a pic here to make us jealous. 😛