Home Forums Bows and Equipment New arrows- spine help.

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    • Aaron Rushton
      Member
        Post count: 27

        Hi all,

        it’s been a while since i’ve been on the forum and it looks like just as much as a gold mine of information as when i left. I’ve been shooting my 40lb at 28″ bear kodiak magnum with 1535 GT traditionals cut to 29.5″ with 145grn points + 11 grain inserts up front quite happily for a while now, but an offer has come up for a dozen .500 spined easton gamegetters that i cannot refuse. My question is if these will be OK for my bow? Stu Millers calculator says that they would be ok at 29.5″ with 125grn points + 15grn inserts up front will be ok. Does anyone on the forum have any advice on this? are .500 spined aluminum arrows stiffer or softer than 1535 spined carbons? i was under the impression that they were stiffer from the ‘bend test’ but i may be incorrect. would you recommend leaving the shafts a little longer?

        thank you,

        Aaron

      • Robert Gilbert
        Member
          Post count: 22

          Greetings Aaron ,

          I am no expert by any means but , to answer your question , I think that the .500 aluminum shaft at the length you suggest would be a tad stiff . More weight up front will weaken the spine . The .500 is close to a 2016. Look at Easton’s chart and come up with your own conclusion . Nothing like trial and error to find out what works for YOU .

        • Aaron Rushton
          Member
          Member
            Post count: 27

            Thanks Mr.Griz! Do you think if i left them long, 30″, it would be OK? i know that bareshaft shooting and varying point weights is the way forward, but i’d like to keep the arrow weight close to my carbon arrows atm and don’t want to put too much weight up front so if i could leave them long and have less point weight it would be better for me.

          • David Petersen
            Member
              Post count: 2749

              Aaron, forgive my brashness, but there is NO reason for not putting more weight up front, and lots of good reasons to do it. I, like many another who have been up and down this road a long while, now try to get the lightest shafts we can find with the necessary spine, in order to get up to the total weight we want with as much of that weight as possible up front. High FOC arrows shoot more accurately out to any reasonable trad hunting range, and they penetrate and kill better. At least do yourself the favor of giving max FOC a try before determining it’s not for you. Inertia (comfy old habit) is a constant adversary to progress! 😆

            • Jason Wesbrock
              Member
                Post count: 762

                Aaron,

                Gold Tip 1535 shafts have a static spine of .600. If they shoot well for you with normal inserts and 145-grain points, there is no way an Easton Gamegetter 500 (which is a 2016) will tune properly with a 125-grain point. I understand getting a good deal on arrows, but if they’re the wrong spine it’s no bargain. That notwithstanding, if you’re dead set on using them, I would highly suggest you leave them full length and start with a point weight of at least 175 grains (you may have to go heavier or lighter from there). Bare shaft tuning will tell the tale on what it will take to get them shooting well for you with your bow. The best any of us can do is get you in the neighborhood. Good luck.

              • Aaron Rushton
                Member
                Member
                  Post count: 27

                  Thanks for all your help guys! My reservations about getting a higher point weight is also due to the fact that i cannot find any screw in points higher than 125grn in my country, and so have to order from the U.S which can be expensive for me. I think i may have to pass up this deal as much as it pains me, i didn’t realise how big the difference in spine is between my current arrows and the ones i wished to purchase. Thanks for all your help!

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