Goraidh wrote: Hi everyone. I know the definition of brace height, but I really don’t understand how and why it effects arrow flight. I just bought a new Bear Grizzly and am trying to get it tuned in. Bear recommends 7.5 to 8.5 inches of brace height. Why that particular number? Why not 7 or 9? Thanks for any insight.

Jeff

8″ +/- 1/2″ for tuning adjustment. You can only get so many twists out of or added to a string.

I’m by no means an authority on this…

Brace height affects the power stroke of the bow. Finding that sweet spot where the bows power is most “under control” (i.e. brace height is best) will yield the best power out of the bow WITHOUT causing adverse “reactions” from the bow. Have the bow “under control” but still delivering the most power possible will allow for the arrow to fly the best. Allowing that power stroke to go too far, i.e. too low of a brace height, will cause erratic arrow flight and an uncomfortable shooting experience with most likely greater hand shock. Having too high of a brace height will limit the power stroke and will not allow the bow to properly utilize the power on moving the arrow.

So, there are really two key components in tuning your bow (more than this but strictly around this discussion) and that is finding the “sweet spot” for the brace height and then finding the perfect arrow spine for that. Of course, finding the proper arrow spine is another whole discussion. 🙂

Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Jeff — Welcome to traditional archery and this site. Here are a few basics of brace height: The lower the brace height you can get away with, the longer the power stroke thus the more thrust/speed to the arrow. So an unnecessarily high brace can rob your bow of its max potential performance. Too high and you get excess string noise on release and depending on the bow, hand shock. Too low and you get string slap on your forearm (thus, armguards). Each bow is different with long “Hill style” (straight) longbows having the lowest brace heights and short recurves the highest. I always recommend that you start at the midpoint recommended, in this case 8″ and see what you have. If no arm slap, take it down a bit at a time until you get slap, then go back up until it disappears. Others likely have more efficient and precise ways to go about it but this has always worked for me. And you know that with every adjustment to brace height you have to move the string nock position up or down. Tuning is one step at a time. First get your brace height by noting the points above. When that feels right, adjust your nock point so that the arrow flies straight rather than nock high or low. And with new strings it takes a lot of shooting to get them fully stretched (“fast flight” strings stretch far less) and so you have to keep checking brace height and adjusting everything until the stretching is done. For all new trad archers and bowhunters I recommend TJ Conrads’ “The Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook,” which thoroughly and clearly covers all such introductory topics for tuning, shooting, and hunting. For such a simple weapon, the learning curve is considerable and as much instinctive as mechanical. Take your time and enjoy. –Dave

It largely affects how loud the bow is as well.

I can get away with a brace height of 7″ on my Beowulf Recurve. Anything less, and problems arise..

It actually shoots very well at that brace height.

I’m only in my 2nd year of trad shooting, but learning the in’s and out’s of tuning has been very fun!