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Whats the best way to cut carbon shafts w/out a cut off saw?
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Quaker boy wrote: Whats the best way to cut carbon shafts w/out a cut off saw?
Cheapest and bet way I found was a small saw I found at Harbor freight. You can see it here http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307It comes with a round wood sawblade but it is removable and you can get an “apple saw” or similar replacement cut off blade for carbons or large Dremel or cut-off tool type disc. They used to be around $12-15 but I think they caught on and price went up.See them on “Bay sometimes but watch out for prices…
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If cutting off dozens a year, I would definately pick up a regular arrow saw. An option is go in together with a couple buddies that shoot and buy a reg saw that ALL can use.
BUT I dont. A dozen a year is a lot for me and being a total tightwad (POOR!) I’ll tell you what a buddy and I have done for fiberglass and aluminum and lately for carbon. Expensive ones too.
The carbon manufacturers and some shooters will have a stroke at this but try it on a section already cut off from another arrow and is going to be tossed anyway. You need to judge for yourself.
I use a plain ol’ pipe cutter.:roll: and a SMALL one seems to work the best.
I know, I know, “you’ll collapse the shaft”, “it wont cut straight” etc, etc, but try this with an odd piece you have from previously cut off shafts or a broken one.
***The IMPORTANT part is getting something that FITS inside the shaft to offer a surface to cut against, and it must fit well PLUS it’s also important that the blade of the pipe cutter be clean, smooth and not pitted.***
Cut slowly, with light pressure being increased every other turn or so. When done I use the “rat tail” end of a file to LIGHTLY ream the inside of the shaft.
Granted this is NOT the “recommended” procedure but I just cut off 6 Grizzlystiks with a 300 carbon arrow inside, glued in the inserts and all six spin with a broadhead absolutely perfect and fly that way as well.
One I bounced off a rock yesterday and there was no damage to the shaft at all so can’t see any sign of weakening the shaft either.
AGAIN……I’d try this on a JUNK piece first then judge for yourself.
Others can say what they will about this being NOT good but I can’t tell a lick of difference between them and the ones I paid EIGHTEEN DOLLARS A DOZEN to have cut off by a “bow shop” last year and is how I will cut off the other six I have coming.
Travel this path at your own risk, my friend, but so far I see no reason to not continue doing this for my own.
Call me a tight wad……TIS TRUE! lol
God Bless
Steve -
Thanks for the advice, I’ll give it a shot. I’m pretty tight to when it comes to a tool I might use 12 times a year, if that.thanks again steve!
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My freinds and I use a dremel tool with the cut off disk, definatly does not make a strait cut but then I use the shaft tamper that comes with axis shafts to smooth it out. Then it becomes strait, my freind has a arrow saw and I just get him to do it now if I am worried about it, generally most of the time I leave them full length!? I did cut the full-metal jackets using this technique and it was successful!
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If you already have a Dremel and a cut off wheel, all you need is some scrap wood and screws. Heck, you could even clamp the Dremel to a work bench and get by just fine.
Push the side of the shaft into the cut off wheel until it penetrates the wall, and then slowly spin it to complete the cut. As long as the cut off wheel is perpendicular to the shaft, your cut will be perfectly straight. This is where some kind of home made jig comes in handy, which brings us back to the scrap wood and screws.
Save your money and don’t buy an arrow saw. For the price of a saw, you could buy a brand new Dremel and have money left over. Plus, you now have a Dremel tool to use for other things.
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Stupid me, never thought of clamping it down, I always measured out and free handed it, wow . . . I am totatlly making a jig now some spare 2 by 4’s laying around, heck I will have a arrow saw in a matter of minuets. I feel stupid!:D
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Since I make arrows for myself and my friends from either wood, carbon, or aluminum I use the A-1 Arrow saw from 3-Rivers Archery and it works absolutely great but it did come at a significant cost. I used to measure the length I needed then use a hack saw to cut them off. Then I would use the True Taper tool to taper the wood shafts before putting on the field point or broadheads. I don’t know…there are a dozen ways to cut your shafts. I guess you have to find out what will work for you providing you don’t have to do as many arrows as I do. If you plan on making many arrow then an arrow cut off saw is the way to go…especially if you are making carbon or aluminum arrows. Good luck!
Dan
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