Yea an ILF would make tuning the tiller pretty easy. Any idea if the length “of a properly tillered bow” would make a difference in sound?

OK. Does this theory still apply to long bows? There is little to no string contact there. If those limbs are out of time maybe it will lengthen the sound?

Is that right?

I am still playing with the brace height on my current bow, but I have twisted the string well beyond normal, so any shorter and it will have to be with a new string.

So I adjusted the tiller on my old recurve tonight. Will see if it makes a difference in noise. A bit of experimentation on my part. Will most likely have to adjust nock point again, but worth it, if it quiets the bow some.

It had 1/8″ positive tiller (top limb) and I made it even tiller. I shoot 3 under.

OK made two changes to the bow, that helped a LOT. First, as mentioned, I adjusted the tiller to be even, and I have been working on my own bow quiver. Never liked slip on or wrap around styles. Slip on’s were too heavy and wrap around just moved too much for my liking.

Mine mounts to the AMO riser inserts (2) on the side, and (as yet to be added) a lower mount (one) at the bottom of the riser. It is all aluminum except the broad head cup, and it is a combo of plastic and foam.

I know it’s not to the liking of many but suits me fine and will actually look pretty decent when it’s all painted up. Anyway, with just the top mount, for now, I shot the bow, and I would guess perceived noise is cut about 1/2. That and there is very little movement of the quiver. Movement might have been due partly to tiller before, but all is good now.

I will still build a longer takedown, when I build my own, just to see if it does seem to make a difference. Plus a longer bow should shoot a little easier as well.

Here’s some shots of my quiver. I made it from parts I had in my shop. The top or broadhead cup, is part of a pair of quivers I bought years ago one a big sale, and paid about $2 each.

Total I have about $4 in this one. I wanted a [quiver that kept the arrows in a straight line, and inside the curve of the limbs, for balance. It is very light.

The one I was using kept the arrows in a half circle and I hated that. I still need to paint it.

It’s been fun to build.

LOL yea it gets used quite a bit, mostly with the cyclone filter I also made. That makes the filter last a LOT longer.

I did use aluminum. The top piece is 1/8 x 1.5″ and the bottom is 1/8 x 3/4″. It’s soft enough to bend without breaking. I had to use the vice and some tools for leverage, to do it though.

Everything is riveted together, but there are two screws that I used to hold the upper bracket onto the quiver, to make sure everything lined up correctly. Then I put two rivets in it to make it permanent.

It is a lot lighter than the center only, mounted all plastic (or some kind of poly material) that I have used for years. That one mounted to the bow in only one spot (center of riser) and was heavy and the arrows were held in a semi circle, that was awkward in the brush because it stuck out so far. It also was lined up with the riser, and made the bow feel forward heavy.

This one, that I made, makes the bow feel balanced, and when I am sitting, it lies flat on my lap. I could not take my hand off the bow with the old one, when sitting, because the bow would actually roll off my lap if I did.

I found that out the hard way sitting in a tree stand in Ohio. That earned me a trip back down the tree to retrieve my bow.

I like some back up arrows, because on rare (yea right) occasions I do miss, and sometimes arrows are hard to find!

Yea I have tried both, and found out the hard way, which was which. In the center of my quiver, by the hand grip, the “U” channel is made from the non-bending part.

That metal came from an old spa cover that I replaced. I pulled some 4ft pieces of that channel metal out and saved it. Worked perfect for this job.

This quiver sits so close inside the bow, it has almost zero torque, like you mentioned. Not so my old one. I usually carry my bow, string down, so the torque doesn’t affect me as much. Unless I am stalking, then it is string up. This design imparts less torque when the shot is released as well.