Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › Out of the hospital into the shop

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    • wTk
      Member
        May 20, 2016 at 8:49 pm
        Post count: 103
        #2935

        Feels good to smell sawdust again. I’m finishing up a new longbow based on my interpretation of the Cari-Bow Silver Fox riser. I’ve been sliming my risers down and think this it getting close to what I’m after. 17″ end to end, cut 1/8″ past center, hickory with bloodwood beam, bloodwood/maple/fiberglass accent. I’m probably going to paint and paint dip this in a camo pattern as the wood is pretty plain. I put a coat of gloss on it to find and scratches that need to be worked. Working on the limbs now which are 45# at 28″ which will go down a bit after final shaping and sanding. Not as nice as the Cari-Bow but I like the slim look and feel.

      • Robin Conrads
        Admin
          May 20, 2016 at 11:27 pm
          Post count: 916
          #15796

          Beautiful work! I hope the hospital stay wasn’t too serious. 😯 Working in the shop should make you feel better quickly.

        • wTk
          Member
          Member
            May 20, 2016 at 11:31 pm
            Post count: 103
            #15817

            Webmother wrote: Beautiful work! I hope the hospital stay wasn’t too serious. 😯 Working in the shop should make you feel better quickly.

            Been fighting cancer for nine years and had to go in and have a tumor removed that was blocking a kidney. Took a couple of weeks but outlook is good.

          • David Coulter
            Member
              May 20, 2016 at 11:44 pm
              Post count: 2293
              #15924

              I wish you good health. Glad you are doing what you’d rather be doing now. Best wishes, dwc

            • wTk
              Member
              Member
                May 23, 2016 at 11:44 pm
                Post count: 103
                #50345

                Well limbs on, stippled the grip, satin finish over gloss, and got some shots through it. Really liking the light weight and feel of the low grip. Not a screamer but smooth, silent, and crisp. Had planned on painting and camo dipping it but guess I’ll forget the paint as that’s the consensus of everyone. I have some bison horn that comes off in layers and are curved and will match the belly side and cover the plugs. Now I just have to decide what shape to carve them in. More fun 🙂

                Unbraced

                Braced

                28″ draw

                Pin/standard nock cross

                Stippled grip

                Force Draw Curve

              • Ralph
                Moderator
                  May 23, 2016 at 11:55 pm
                  Post count: 2580
                  #50430

                  Mighty purty…:D:D

                  Wishing the best for you,

                  Ralph

                • Stephen Graf
                  Moderator
                    May 25, 2016 at 11:27 am
                    Post count: 2429
                    #10524

                    I like your tillering tree setup. Pivoting shelf and leather pull….

                    182 FPS at 10 GPP ain’t a slouch. My longbows will do 175 on a good day. But your data shows the brace height at 6.5 inches while the curve shows no draw force till 8.5 inches. Which is it? Just curious.

                    Hey, you ever use the Super Tiller Spreadsheet? I’ve tried but could never get it to work.

                  • wTk
                    Member
                    Member
                      May 25, 2016 at 12:37 pm
                      Post count: 103
                      #11071

                      Good morning Steve,

                      8.5″ is measured from the back of the riser so all of the draw measurements are AMO based. The actual brace height is 8.5″ less 1 3/4″ or 6 3/4″. The tree design is a combination of several wood bow builders trees. This allows pulling in a straight line and can watch the leather to see which direction it drifts as I pull down. It will drift toward the stronger limb then I sand the stiff limb until it pulls straight down. Really helps getting vibration and hand shock to a minimum. Before I even mount the limbs I mark each one in 2″ increments and enter the width and thickness of each limb in a spreadsheet which shows me where to sand to get them as close to identical as I can. Then when they’re on the riser I rarely have limb twist issues and the tiller comes out very close to even. Time consuming but saves me frustration.

                      I love playing with supertiller. I used it to design this limb shape and use it to check the effect of different limb pad angles on the draw curve and weight gain. Supertiller is one complicated program thats for sure. I’ve been playing with since 2009 and have modified portions of it to add additional information output.

                      This limb design likes heavier draw weights.I built a riser with 11 degree pads and over estimated the lam stack and ended up with a 67# bow that shot a 675 gr arrow at 188 fps. But no cape buffalo here to hunt LOL. I will build a set of limbs for this riser for a 66″ 55# bow once I get back from vacation. It should perform well. This limb is 1 1/16″ wide at the pads but the 55# limb will be 1 1/8″ wide. Love the way narrow thick limbs perform.

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