You aren’t doing anything wrong, you are just getting started. I wouldn’t worry too much about where you hit till you get some more practice under your belt.

That said, I would suggest you move up to maybe 5 yards and practice at that distance till you are grouping well. Then move back a couple yards and start over. The left/right variation is probably just hand torque and follow through issues. Don’t grip the bow too tightly and push the bow to the target through the whole shot. The high shooting will go away with time. Just keep at it.

Husky,

That’s good advice Steve gave you. If you can get some arrows to fly reasonable well now, just make a few and shoot and have fun. As your form develops you might be making adjustments to your arrows anyway. It’s easy to get frustrated and frustration ain’t your friend.

Look for moebow and follow his advice on blind bale shooting. I didn’t do it in the beginning, but think it’s a great idea. I do it now and then, mainly in the dark and it does help you concentrate on your form. enjoy, dwc

Husky,

I can only add one thing to the excellent advice thus far, and it’s more of a question regarding your arrows. Are the same arrows hitting 6″ high at 11 o’clock, or are all of your arrows missing the same from time to time? The only reason I ask is I’ve seem more than once where a set of arrows were horribly mismatched (once with carbons, the rest with woods). In that rare situation, consistent and separate groups will appear. But the other 99+ times out of a hundred, it’s a recurring and consistent shot execution problem.

If you need to determine if certain arrows are shooting out of your intended spot try marking each arrow with a number on the knock or somewhere you can easily see it and then shoot if the same arrows arent flying to your intended target it could be minsmatched spine. there can be quite a disparity of spine weight in a dozen shafts even though they are sold at a certain weight. you could also watch the grain in the shaft alignment to the Cock feather this can have an impact on accuracy also.

As much as I love wood arrows, I often recomend new shooters (or old shooters like me in a slump) go to aluminum or carbon arrows for a time. New shooters have enough to worry about, with form and release, knowing your shafts aren’t the culprit saves some frustration.

When I first started only about four years ago I had some wood arrows. I had some aluminum arrows left over from somewhere and tried them. When I found I could group the aluminum much better that’s what I went with. Now I’m using carbon because they cost much less in the long run and are easy to tune.

I think there’s something to be said for what Roger said. dwcphoto

Husky,

I grip a longbow the same way I grip a recurve.