Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › light pound bow dilemma
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Howdy all,
I have a 32.25″ draw and shoot a sixty pound bow with 300 spine shafts . I want to sell my Matlock predator x and get a 50# bow. The real problem is that if i drop below a 340 spine shaft it will be to short for me. 400’s are to short. I know there are a lot of factors but do you guys think i can make a 340 work? The only tuning I get to do is with string material, brace height and point weight.
Thanks DK
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There is a possible beneficial aspect of that long arrow length. There’s some support for the notion it might allow use of shafts that would appear to be mismatched in spine. I have seen this myself and this article supports it as well: http://www.alaskabowhunting.com/Matching-Arrows-W16.aspx
I know nothing about building non-wooden arrows, so you’ll know better what shaft options are available to you. But I think it’s worth experimenting while ignoring the charts or spine calculator.
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DK,
Welcome to the long draw club. 🙂
I have a 32″ draw length and shoot 340s with 125-grain tips out of 56# bows. If you’re going down to 50# you should still be fine. You’ll likely end up with a tip somewhere in the 145 to 200-grain range. Select a lightweight shaft like the Victory HV series and you’ll probably end around 10 gpp by the time you’re done.
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Eidsvolling,
As someone who shoots full length shafts, trust me on this. Spine matters. 🙂
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Thanks for the response guys! I will check out the link when I get a little time. Jwesbrock. Why a lighter shaft. I have been shooting and hunting for only about four years and still don’t understand gpp? I am also not that smart. Thanks again.
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I only suggested a lighter shaft because you’ll likely have to use a somewhat heavy tip to get them tuned right. My full length Beman ICS Bohunters with 125-grain tips run around 485 grains. That’s a normal weight shaft. To get those tuned right for 50# @ 32.5″ you’ll probably end up over 10gpp — not a bad thing if you’re used to a slow trajectory.
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DK wrote: … The only tuning I get to do is with string material, brace height and point weight.
Thanks DK
You can add silencers to your list of tuning tools. Moving the silencers around has a significant affect on bare shaft tuning carbon arrows. If the bare shaft arrow shows:
weak – Move silencers towards nock set.
Stiff – Move silencers towards limb tips.
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This might be what you are talking about:
http://www.twotracksbow.com/store/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=181
That seems steep to me for something you can make yourself, if you have the materials.
I have no trouble (well ok, maybe every now and then they snag a bit) with plain old wool yarn silencers.
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Steve,
Those are what I was talking about, thank you. They do seem a little steep. I use beaver now and its kind of a pain to untwist them and move them around during the tuning process. I tried the rubber string leaches but they didn’t silence my bow enough. Hopefully these will speed up my string and dampen it enough. I will try them and see.
Thanks again,
Doug K
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I bought a set of String Scallops a few years ago. I’ve only used one pair and they are holding up fine. They are easy to move and they do work well. I always thought Cat Whiskers worked well, too, and they are pretty cheap. There are cheaper ways, but I won’t say it was a waste of money to by the Scallops. I’d like to get one of their hats, too, but that’s out my price range. dwc
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Two Tracks makes a nice looking, warm looking wool hat. Probably last a lifetime, too, but too steep for me right now. Maybe Santa will keep that in mind for next year. dwc
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