-
-
I like how it turned out. She ended up 63″ nock to nock and 56# at 28″. The limbs are 1 1/18″ wide at the riser. I used bison rib for the tip and wedge overlays. I need to learn scrimshaw and do those overlays. I made the riser a bit beefy to keep it stiff. I layed up 10 layers of fiberglass cloth and a piece of linen phenolic in the riser to beef it up. I added some more wood on the opposite side of the window so I could cut the window out 1/8″ past center. I also cut the shelf down flat so I could use a flipper type rest and a cushion plunger. It shoots vanes well. Seems to shoot my 585 grain 31% foc arrows like darts. I’m still on the fence about the black glass on the back of the bow. I didn’t have a long enough piece brown glass to do the back of the riser but I have a couple of pieces I may splice together and then cover the splice with some more bone.
Now just have to get my bear permit and see what she’ll do.
-
I use this t-nut in the limb
And this is a rough sketch showing how I did it on a reverse mounted limb. I do the drilling while the riser is still in a block with only the limb pads cut. I use a drilling guide to center the hole starting with a 5/16″ from the pad side the turn it over and use a larger bit to drill in from the belly side. I use a brass adapter that has 5/16″ threads in the inside and a course thread on the outside. the large hole is smaller than the outside diameter of the adapter. I put a layer of smoothon in the hole than start screwing the adapter in. I screw in a 5/16″ bolt from the pad side as I screw the adapter in so that its straight. Once the epoxy is cured I drill out the adapter with a 5/16″ bit to get a snug fit on the limb bolt. Have thought about making a fancy plug for the holes but never get around to it.
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.