Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › installing arrow rest w/ a thin strip of leather
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I just got a new recurve bow and I’m setting it up. I’ve read about placing a thin strip of leather or something under arrow rest/ strike plate. Is this necessary? Will this installation improve arrow flight upon a bad release? Also, the bow is a Bear grizzly 58″. Right now, I’ll be just doing the practice thing getting comfortable shooting this bow that has a different handle than my first recurve bow. Thank you for any HELP!
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The idea behind putting a small piece of leather, or a small wire even, behind the strike pad or under the arrow rest is to minimize contact between the arrow and the bow. The theory being that with minimum contact, the setup will be less sensitive to torquing the bow.
If your bow has a rounded shelf strike plate area, it wont benefit much from adding the strip. If it has been cut flat, then it will benefit.
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Thank you for the information. The strike plate is flat, the arrow rest/shelf area is curved. When I nock an arrow, I can see that the arrow point’s to the left a little, so by placing a small piece of anything under the strike plate, this will make the arrow point more to the left is this okay?
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rferdinand
Well Steve has a lot more expertise then I –I have the same bow (don’t use it because I’m shooting long bow now) and I just shot it the way it came. Never actually looked at were the arrow was pointing –just looked at the target and shot.
Not sure this helps–but don’t try to make it to complicated–in my limited experience most problems are associated with me and what I’m doing wrong vice the equipment.
Semper Fi
Mike
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colmike wrote: …Not sure this helps–but don’t try to make it to complicated–in my limited experience most problems are associated with me and what I’m doing wrong vice the equipment…
Semper Fi
Mike
Mike is surely right in my opinion. The effects are subtle, and lost on most of us. But it is fun to play!
Instead of pulling the strike plate off and putting something behind it, you can just as easily glue the strip onto the strike plate. Then you can move it around to get the effect you want. Barge cement is a good choice as it holds well, but is easily removed.
As you noticed, by adding the strip you will be moving the point of the arrow left. This will result in the bow needing a weaker arrow to shoot correctly.
So back to what Mike says, just shoot the bow. Does the arrow fly correctly? Does it go where you want it to (at least pretty close)? Then no problems, just shoot.
But if you notice odd arrow flight, or unpredictable groupings, or hear the arrow slapping the bow on release, or the string slapping your arm, or… or.. then it’s time to scratch the noggin.
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I’m not sure if I’ll do anything but shoot the bow. This problem started with me having a problem with Samich Sage recurve bow twisting in my hand, that Sage handle for my hands is too large; one too many things that I had to do. A previous topic, “Traditional Archery and PTSD,” I received a lot of help from forum members; I was faced with problems involved with shooting traditional archery that I haven’t faced with shooting a compound bow. I could just shoot it or buy another recurve bow, but that wouldn’t happen until 11/18/2014 (my birthday). Traditional archery require much more focus/concentration; this demon has been with me since Vietnam 1971. I wanting to stay in traditional archery (archery period), is where the Bear Grizzly bow came into my hands; I always do a product review if I have plans on buying a new bow or whatever. I came across on Ebay a deal I could not turn-down: Bear Grizzly 58″ 55# a package deal (all new) for $339.99 free s/h. A 50% improvement over the Samich Sage handle; that bow I would have to put a “death grip” on it to be able just to shoot it! I’m enjoying shooting the Grizzly! Thank you to ALL for your concern!
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