Hopefully someone with more experience will post as Im pretty new to Dr Ashbys arrow standards.

My understanding is that the heavy bone threshold supercedes FOC. Go for the 650gr arrow first and then build in the FOC.

As for your question about the wrap, moot point as you arent at 650gr yet.

Shaft to ferrule ratio is a major factor in overall penetration. The ferrule should have a larger diameter than the shaft itself.

Maybe the Dr himself will explain more and talk about the Turbolator. I read about it but am focusing on 650gr and FOC >20%

Im shooting a 53# mildly reflexed BBI and set up some cedar shafts with the 225gr Tuffheads and am at 630 gr before sealing and glue and getting right around 24% FOC. We’ll see what it actually comes out to once all is said and done.

Loooking forward to hearing how the ash comes out. I havent used ash in awhile though I remember that if they werent sealed very well they liked to stay away from straight.

toehead,

I posted the other thread but I am shooting a 29″ AD trad arrow with a brass insert, steel adapter and 225 gr tuffhead bh. Total upfront is 425. My total arrow weight is 775-780. I am shooting a 55 lb longbow but these would probably shoot out of a lighter bow as well. My issue in the earlier thread is that this is getting way up there in normal weigh ranges but as the Doc gave it his blessing and that’s good enough for me:)

Gigglemonk —

You are hard on the track —

650grs+arrowweight and 20%+ Efoc are the start numbers –“proceed sirs” from there—

The reason for the steel/brass Inserts/adapters etc -is arrow integrity — so it all stays together when the going gets tough — if you analize most of your arrow failures [broken when/ hitting game/ hunting]in the “olden times” {pre Doc Ashby} the Bh broke off [alum adapts/inserts].

Scout

wraps are for “pretty” and so you know I love Beautiful Bows & arrows – but that is secondary to efoc, if that is what you are trying to attain!

Too heavy??? Not unless your exceeding 16 grains per pound of bow weight.

With most hunting shots being 20yds or less I doubt you will have a problem.

My hunting arrows this season will be atleast 800grs and I will shooting them out of 55 to 60# bows.

Troy

I’m shooting a black widow lb so it is not center shot but also not allot of deflection like some. Not sure what your draw length is but you could cut them back a bit and drop 20-30 grains. I have shot variations of this weight arrow for a few years now and you will get use to the trajectory quickly. Like was said above at 20 yards and in it is a non factor. I will shoot if needed out to 25 with this set up but i think of this rig as up close and personal. Ya need a little “arch” in archery anyhow;).hope this helps!

Duston, the number one requirement is arrow integrity. Lose the aluminum inserts and adaptors! Achieving perfect arrow flight is next most important. The degree of FOC comes in next but, should a heavy bone be hit the degree of FOC has no influence on the heavy bone threshold. Especially since you’re looking for hog arrows, where the aiming spot for the vitals (from broadside) is extremely close to the shoulder/leg bones I’d place more emphasis on keeping a minimum of 650 grains, to stay above the heavy bone threshold, then I’d go for the most FOC I could get.

Only if you find the finished arrow does not give a flat enough trajectory for YOUR personal hunting would I be concerned about the finished arrow weight. In bowhunting, there’s no such thing as overkill. When all else is equal, more arrow weight always means more arrow force, and that means more tissue penetration. Remember that, unlike when shooting a target, getting your hunting arrow to the target is only the first stage. How your arrow performs after impact is more important than how it performed before impact. It does no good to make a hit if your hunting arrow fails in its terminal performance.

The 16 grains per pound of draw weight Troy mentioned is based on the weight of the arrow where the rate of gain in arrow force derived from the bow begins to diminish; for the more efficient, modern longbows and recurves. In other words, that’s the “most efficient” arrow weight. Interestingly, when we look for the most efficient grains of arrow per pound of draw weight for self-wood bows it turns out to be at 10 GPI, and I think that’s where the old “10 grains per pound of draw weight” rule of thumb originally comes from; a ‘rule of thumb’ that I think is not valid for our newer, high performance bows.

Yes, I would recommend losing the wrap. That will increase your FOC, which is more important than any benefit derived from a wrap.

Here’s a link to a thread that should bring you up to speed on turbulators. https://www.tradbow.com/members/cfmbb/messages.cfm?threadid=C8EA4FBD-1422-1DE9-ED1A1C909376B7B6

Ed

First, at what distance are you shooting those bare shaft tuning shots? If it’s relatively close try moving back and see what it shows. Another thing you have need to watch for (especially with the full length shafts) is getting a false strong spine reaction, resulting from the arrow’s rear striking the riser.

I don’t pay any attention to nock kick during bare shaft tuning on my EFOC/UEFOC arrows but once your arrow is tuned, and assuming that you’re shooting into a target that is uniform (like a REALTIVELY NEW foam target), you won’t have any left-right nock kick.

Ed

toehead wrote: The best part is they are breshafting perfect and they are less then $60/dozen shipped.

Sounds like you are all set. Looking forward to that “field test” report!

Ed