Home Forums Bows and Equipment Stain/Seal/Cap/Crest/Glue Compatibility

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    • pettigrew86
      Member
        Post count: 13

        Hi All,

        Have some cabin fever and would like to get into crafting my own wooden arrows. I’ve read dozens of posts on this and other boards with various (and sometimes conflicting) recommendations for the compatibility of different products to use to finish a shaft. Any guidance would be helpful on what to use (and what not to use together) would be helpful.

        Thanks

      • Larry O. Fischer
          Post count: 92

          Rule of thumb, use Fletchtite when using Bohning products, use Duco on everything else.
          Larry

        • Chad Sivertsen
          Member
            Post count: 84

            Be sure to read manufacturers recommendation on the container, they often warn of conflicts with other finishes. Lacquers and enamels generally are incompatible, my old memory is hazy on this but you can apply them in a specific order. Enamel first, let dry completely and then lacquer over it I think it is. Anyway, the best way to find out is try shafts with different finishes and see what works for you.

            I normally use MW Spar Ureathane on bows and arrows, good weather protection but it yellows slightly so might not give the results you seek over a white cap.

            Like Larry, I use Duco on everything, fletching, rests, nocks. Have fun.

          • William Warren
            Member
              Post count: 1384

              Ditto on the Duco on wood or polyurethane. I wipe on the polyu with a rag after I stain the shafts. Stain type depends on what wood I’m using. Port Orford Cedar has more oil in the wood and might require a laquer or alchohol stain. Other woods like chundoo, hickory or ashe will take a natrual stain like walnut hulls and water. Here are some chundoo stained with walnut hull and finished with polyu.

              I’ve had these for a while and they needed repair. I sanded off some of the original stain, sealed them, repaired the fletching, added a crest, and some small game tips.

            • Fletcher
                Post count: 177

                There really isn’t a set way that things have to be done. Most important for me is to start with good shafts. There is nothing I can do to a crappy shaft to make a good arrow from it. Next is to straighten them. I then stain, dip or wipe two coats of clear gloss oil base polyurethane, crown and crest if desired, and a final top coat of clear gloss. Let that dry very well then nock and fletch with Duco. Nock and point tapers and alignment are important.

              • pettigrew86
                Member
                Member
                  Post count: 13

                  Appreciate the advice.

                • SteveMcD
                  Member
                    Post count: 870

                    I have to agree with Fletcher. It’s all about the shaft, matched in spine and weight, and straightness. The nock and point tapers are the most critcal factor. Got to have perfect tapers for good arrow flight. Like in all things… patience, patience and more patience. When cresting with paints less is more, in number of colors and thickness of paint, I like testors but it has to be thinned out quite a bit, small paint brushes – the smaller the brush the better. But always use a quality brush, cheap brushed that lose hair are frustrtating.

                  • cody
                      Post count: 87

                      After staining I dip mine in the 3 rivers gasket lac. It works great and puts on a smooth finish. I put on my feathers on with the fletching tape. For me it works great. You just gotta put a dab of glue on the front of the feather. But so far it has worked out really good

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