Like most traditional bowhunters, when hunting larger animals such as deer, I’m always alert for a chance to harvest other tasty table fare such as grouse. For such opportunities, I carry an extra blunt- or Judo-tipped arrow. An occasional shot at grouse or a practice shot at a stump or leaf helps keep my eyes and muscles tuned, adding to the day’s enjoyment.
However, attaching Piggy Backers to the outer broadhead arrow inside my bow quiver resulted in the loss of several arrows that came loose while moving through thick brush. Too, attaching the extra arrow to one of my broadhead arrows rendered it unavailable should I immediately need it. (Piggy Backers have a clip on both sides; two of them can be used to attach an extra arrow to the outer arrow in the bow quiver. One is attached near the hood to the outer arrow and one near the fletching end of the arrow. They are available from most traditional archery suppliers.)
To help prevent losing my blunt- or Judo-tipped arrows and to be able to readily use all the broadhead arrows in my quiver (should the need arise, as of yet it hasn’t), I designed a different way to attach the extra arrow to my quiver using Piggy Backers.
Initially, I tried attaching a Piggy Backer only on the outer arrow near the hood; but instead, for the fletching end, I added a sixth arrow gripper. (A “gripper,” as used here, is a standard rubber arrow holder for one arrow with which a bow quiver comes originally equipped. I attached the gripper horizontally in line with and next to the original five grippers on my quiver. The results were unacceptable as the sixth gripper crowded the feather fletching of the other five arrows, and an audible rustling could be heard when a broadhead arrow was removed.
After the results of my initial design were unacceptable, I tried again and came up with a design that works: holders for both ends of my extra arrow are attached directly to the hood and to the fletching end of the quiver.
First, the insert foam cushion should be removed from the hood and the inside of the plastic hood scratched with coarse sandpaper. (main photo). Next, a length of reasonably flexible metal is needed to place into the hood to hold the arrow holder (see main photo). I used a 9-inch by 3/4th-inch, 24-gauge suspension strap (often used by plumbers to suspend pipes). Either galvanized or copper will work. Mine had pre-drilled holes suitable for a 1/8 x ¾” machine screw/bolt.
Next, I folded the 9-inch suspension strap in half over onto itself to boost its strength. It still retained enough flexibility to bend it to fit inside the hood and allow it to be shaped outside the hood to attach the holder for my extra arrow (shown in main photo).
The strap should then be measured to the inside of the hood with the other end extending outside enough to allow it to be bent to attach the arrow holder. The outside end should then be bent and shaped as shown in the main photo. Note: If the strap you are using does not have a predrilled hole that can be used for attaching an extra arrow holder, an approximate 1/8th-inch hole should be drilled before bending.
The bottom of the strap should now be sanded and cleaned. Then, glue it to the inside of the hood. Initially, I tried a 2-part epoxy, but it didn’t adhere to the plastic hood cup. So, I used GLOOZIT, an industrial sealant and adhesive that worked.
Next, cut a Piggy Backer into two halves ~ half for attaching to the strap and half for attaching to the arrow’s fletching end. Be sure to make the cut evenly so the halves are equal; if the cut is not exactly in the middle, the holding strength of the lesser half will be reduced. If preferred, rather than cutting one Piggy Backer into two halves, two of them could be cut significantly past the center to make two much thicker halves, which strengthens the gripping action on the arrow.
For the Piggy Backer to be attached to the hood strap, drill a hole through the Piggy Backer that is sized to match the hole in your strap. An appropriately sized machine bolt (also called a machine screw), washer and nut should be used to attach the Piggy Backer to the strap (as shown in main photo). The machine bolt/screw (in my case 1/8 x 3/4”) should be countersunk to prevent it from rubbing against your arrow.
For the fletching end of the quiver, the other half of the Piggy Backer should be attached at a right angle to the quiver’s gripper bar as shown in Photo 2. A 1/8th-inch hole should be drilled into the bar and one into the Piggy Backer. The same size machine bolt and nut used to attach the Piggy Backer to the hood strap may be used to attach one to the bar; be sure to countersink it. If the shape of your quiver’s bar does not accommodate installation at a right angle to the existing grippers, it may need to be modified by adding a strap as was done to the hood, or by some other modification in order to attach the Piggy Backer.
Photo 3 shows my finished quiver with the Piggy Backers installed and holding a blunt-tipped arrow.
Now that my quiver is ready, if I may wax poetically, ’tis the season to go afield, to stalk the woods for fair game, be it table fare, stump, or leaf that beckons me!