- wTkMemberJanuary 27, 2017 at 8:27 pmPost count: 103
This is what the limb and riser looked like before and I don’t like how clunky it looks. Time to start the limbs now. I’m shooting for a 66″ bow and 52# to 55# at 28″ which should be 54# to 58# at my draw length
I have blacked out the area that will be the limb butt once the back side of the riser is cut and epoxied on the belly side.
The bottom half is 5/16″ strips of Hickory epoxied together. There are 3 pieces of .030 fiberglass with the center one wrapped in fiberglass cloth then sandwiched between the other 2. This will be used as a beam to cut riser flex. There is a 1 piece of 1/16″ phenolic over .030″ glass on the belly side of the riser to strengthen and also be the limb pads.
OK the limbs are built and mounted on the riser. I cut the limb butt at a back angle to help hold the back side of the riser. Kirk and Sixby said I should drill and counter sink the back portion of the riser on both ends and epoxy stainless steel screw in to prevent the back portion from popping loose. Sounds like a plan to me. I really like how trim the limb and riser combo are looking.
Here’s the bow profile with full length limbs.
Here’s a picture showing the centerline and the estimated nock placement at 33″ from the centerline.
I screwed and glued the back part of the riser to the belly side with the limb butts wrapped in plastic so the epoxy fills any void between the riser and the limb butt. I’ll be darned sure to remove the limbs before the epoxy sets completely so it doesn’t become a 1-piece
I also built some limbs for a belly mount longbow that I built the riser block for a long time ago. My sister-in-laws son gave me the purpleheart years ago but it was too short for a normal length riser. My best friends wife was wanting a bow so the purpleheart worked well with the 13″ riser on this style. The rest of the riser is honey locust and the laminations are mulberry both that Ralph Morris cut from local trees. The very cool thing I noticed about the locust is that the dark grain turns purple when it gets hot. This bow will be a special gift for my friend wife.
- Stephen GrafMemberJanuary 28, 2017 at 6:07 amPost count: 2127
Looking good! I saw a couple name drops that makes me think you’ve visited Brandon Stall’s forum, or the pirate forum…
I like the integrated look of limbs in 3 piece bows. Slapping them on top does look clunky, course, and incongruent.
Thanks for sharing! This forum hasn’t had may build alongs lately. Bows, arrows, quivers, toothpicks, whatever. It takes a lot of effort to stop what you are doing and take pictures. Much appreciated!
I have a bow in the oven that’s been sitting there for a few days. My kids are home this weekend, and I have a bowfishing friend coming for a few days of winter carp fishing. Of course, now it will be cold for the next few days… Ah well, put on the thermal undies and wool socks. Time to stay up late, sleep in, get carp stinky, and have fun!
The promise of that bow blank will keep, and provide good talk while we stalk the wiley carp.
- wTkMemberFebruary 3, 2017 at 7:51 pmPost count: 103
Here’s the riser shaped and ready for filler. It will be stained in a brn, grn, & blk camo pattern. The riser is cut 1/4″ past center and is set up for a flipper rest and a cushion plunger. I will build a shelf that can be stuck on the flat shelf if I want to shoot off the shelf. I still need to finish the tips, lighten the bottom limb, and time the limbs. It shoots good split finger but I want it set up for 2 under.
Unbraced 66″ N2N
Braced at 7 1/4″
Drawn to 29″ but not leveled
- wTkMemberFebruary 4, 2017 at 6:41 amPost count: 103
Stephen I was pulling the rope with one hand and trying to take the picture with the other so the angle makes the lower limb look weaker. I made the tree with holes every inch so I can put a stop in and pull the scale down to it that way I get an accurate FD curve like this one.
Here’s the 29″ FD curve Good energy storage today the chrono will tell how efficiently it puts that energy into the arrow. (BTW I hate how this site requires you to put on images)
- wTkMemberFebruary 4, 2017 at 6:51 amPost count: 103
Stephen I made a spreadsheet that I keep all the data on each bow that has measurements every 2″ for the width and thickness of each limb. I then sand each limb where it is bigger than the other until they match. This gets me really close but is time consuming. Then if the bow vibrates when shot I’ll pull the bow to full draw on the tree and by using a short piece of wood measure the gap between it and the limb. If there’s much difference I sand the stronger limb to match the other. But
- wTkMemberFebruary 4, 2017 at 8:53 amPost count: 103
OK here’s the fd/speed results right at my draw length. Using a release & measured at 53.25# at 29″ Stored energy 50.32ftlbs and SE/PDF of 94.5% arrow speed 203 fps for 48.677ftlbs kinetic energy and 96.735% efficiency. Way better than I’d hoped.
Measured finger shot: 53.25# at 29″ Stored energy 50.32ftlbs and SE/PDF of 94.5% arrow speed 196fps for 46.309ftlbs kinetic energy and 92.028% efficiency.
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